• Questa guida e' stata trovata e diffusa in Italia da Renato 'Pip' Seghieri

  • Reproduced by Kind Permission Of Dave Miller 


    But here are some suggestions for making projectiles for Live Role Playing combat purposes which are less dangerous than the 'real thing'.


    Most UK bows use for LRP are about 15 pounds pull up to about 28 pounds pull, for a draw length of 28 inches.


    The best basis for an LRP arrow is a 'real' arrow. This saves all the hassle of getting the right wood (??porch orford cedar)
    and then gluing on flights (feather bits which control spin and direction) and fitting nocks (slotted end thing for bow string). If you know someone who makes arrows anyway, ask them. Otherwise I recommend you just go into an archery shop and by some cheap wooden arrows.

    Take your arrows home, get a small saw and CUT OFF THE HEADS!!!!!!!! (yes - there are some people who need to be told this. Cut off the metal point, throw it away, use it for jewelry but get it away from the arrow. No you can't just put a bung over it or you will kill someone, okay!!

    Many UK LRP organisers may decline arrows with more than a 28 inch draw (distance from the trough of the nock to the back of the head).

    Most archery shops make up arrows as they go along, and where I have bought shafts they will make you up shafts without heads, and, strangley enough, charge you less than for an arrow that you will have to butcher.

    So, let's assume you now have one or more sticks with feathers and a plastic widget at one end and nothing on the other.


    The main purpose of this is to produce a tip for the arrow which is soft and fluffy and won't fall off. For this we require the tip to be solid enough that the shaft will not just causally punch its way through the tip and soft enough not to cause actual harm even if shot in the eye.

    To this end, the tip is a composite of a number of layers of different textures and wider than the eye socket (i.e. minimum of 2 inches / 50 mm).


    The first stage in construction is to fit the shaft with a support platform for the main tip which will remain square to the end of the shaft, so that the main tip will not be pushed off sideways.
    This is done by gluing a lump of rigid foam around the shaft, flush with the end of the shaft. There are a number of ways to achieve this.

    The 'classic' way is to take two blocks of rigid foam each at least one inch thick and two inches on a side. Mark a line on one face of each block perpendicular to one chosen edge. Sand along this line to form a groove. Glue the block to the end of the shaft so that the shaft runs along the groove in the block and the face from which the perpendicular line was drawn is flush with the end of the shaft. Then glue the matching block onto the first block and onto the shaft. You now have a big block of rigid foam glued around the end of the shaft. Carve off the corners to form a rough cylinder (keeping it at least two inches wide)
    After the main tip has been fitted, this can be carved to be more cone shaped.

    An alternative is to take a sheet of rigid foam of any thickness and cut a number of discs out of it. The best way to do this is with a drill press and one of those really dangerous drill attachments which is made to take one of a set of cylinderical saw blades. Anyway, produce a set of anulli (discs with holes in the middle) which will push onto the end of the shaft. Make them in reducing sizes so that the largest is at least 2 inches wide and the smallest is about an inch. Cut as many discs as you need to build up a cone running down the shaft for about three inches. Slide them a little way further up the shaft. Now glue the big disc to the shaft, flush with the end. Glue the other discs to it and to the shaft, one by one.
    At a later stage the steps in this support can be trimmed to form a smoother cone.

    A third but much less satisfactory method is to take a long strip of normal foam abut three inches wide and glue it around the end of the shaft in a spiral until the 'bandage is mor then two inches wide.


    The shaft will still manage to extert some force compressed over a small area when the arrow strikes the target. In order to spread this, it is necessary to put a blocker on the end of the shaft. A coin can be used for this, a "penny" of a UK 2 pence piece.

    For various reasons, I have been using an alternative material for my blockers. The modern house seems cluttered with expired credit cards. These are made from a very durable plastic and are 'free'. Cut a piece off and trim it to about 0.75 inches in diameter. Glue it on the end of the supported shaft.

    If you are using the multi layered disc support heads described above, you could glue the barrier plate right onto the end of the shaft before you glue the discs, to ensure hard contact.

    (The reason I started to do this was that I heard that some game organisers were going to use metal detecters to check the people really had taken the metal heads off of their arrows. I have found that IMHO these plastic buttons take glue better than metal coins. And thank you Tesco for supplying me with plastic cards on every visit :-) )


    The purpose of the membrane is to be a barrier to stop the blocker pushing through the rest of the head, if the shaft becomes disconnected to the support head et al. Thick (0.125 inches) rubber sheet can be used, but a piece of leather is the best material. cut a disc of the barrier material which fully covers the support head. Glue it on well.

    "Contact Area"

    This is a two layer section. Cut a disc of normal foam (you know how wide) and a similar disc of soft foam. The first layer is the main padding but the second (outermost) layer is the very important Speed Dissipation zone. Glue the first disc on to the shaft over the barrier material and then glue the second disc on top of that.


    For durability and extra strength coat (ALMOST) the whole tip in either latex or Gaffa.
    DO NOT
    cover the soft foam face. Overlap onto the sides of the soft foam disc as little as possible.

    This article refers to three types of foam, rigid, normal and soft.

    The rigid foam must be stiff enough not to flex when the end is made up but not brittle enough to take permanent deformation under normal use. Or heavy. Checkout the foam

    The normal foam can but the same foam as is used fro latex swords. It can be the rigid foam from above, depending on the foam.

    Soft foam is what some people call furniture foam very soft and fluffy.

    Build your arrows carefully.
    Remember, someone MAY fire it back at YOU....